[Lister-FR] a leaking centrifugal circulating water pump

[John Clive]

Hi Simon

I just stripped my pump down, and from your description I seem to have the 
earlier version, any chance you could scan your drawing an email it to me?

It also only has a 3" impellor which I think means it's meant for an FR1 or 
FR2

I might have to start hunting around or go to plan b which is to re fit the 
Jabsco that came with the engine....


Regards

John Clive
01827 331462
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Simon Kelley" <simon at thekelleys.org.uk>
To: "Lister Freedom Range list" <lister-fr at lists.thekelleys.org.uk>
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Lister-FR] a leaking centrifugal circulating water pump


> John Clive wrote:
>> Simon
>>
>> I think you emailed me some time ago,
>>
>> Do you know anyone who knows how to "fix" a leaking centrifugal
>> circulating water pump?
>>
>
> Well, I fixed mine.
>
> Here's a "brain dump" of what I learned, doing it.
>
> I assume the leak is from one or both of the weep-holes in the pump
> casing. Don't just block these holes (as someone had done on mine) you
> risk diverting the water into more destructive places (like the 
> crankcase).
>
> The shaft through the pump is sealed at each side by a carbon seal which
> runs on a machined surface in the casing. There is an O-ring which stops
> seepage between the shaft and the carbon seal.
>
> There seem to have been two designs, in the earlier one the carbon seal
> is driven from the shaft just by friction on the O-ring. In the later
> design there is a brass driving dog on the impeller which engages with
> slots on the side to the carbon seal to ensure a positive drive. My pump
> is of the later design but I have drawings for both.
>
> New carbon seals were available a couple of years ago from Sleaman and
> Hawken.
>
> If the machined faces in the casing on which the carbon seals run are
> worn or corroded, even new seals will not work. I had the casing
> re-machined by Peter Thompson an Marine Engine Services in Uxbridge
> which did the job fine.
>
> Dismantling requires a puller to get the drive-gear off the shaft but is
> otherwise not difficult.
>
> I guess that a best-case might be that just the O-rings need replacing.
>
> If you're not up for doing the job yourself, I'm sure Peter Thompson
> would quote for it.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Simon.
>
>
>
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